Waltz is a new Italian restaurant that feels like an old haunt, but delivers new flavors to deep South Philly. It's a fresh take on a classic style of dining, with a polished Italian American menu that's been on the slow fade for decades. The restaurant's charm is more than just a wistful nod to nostalgia; it's a carefully crafted space that pays homage to the past while offering a modern twist. The menu, conceived and implemented by consulting chef Eric Leveillee, is key to Waltz's allure, offering a familiar repertoire of popular dishes, then raising the bar with added elements of craft. The mozzarella is hand-pulled from Caputo Bros. Creamery curds just before service, so the milky white burrata is extra sweet when draped with salty pink curls of prosciutto, juicy cantaloupe, and peppery green olive oil. The pizzas are made from sourdough, which lends their crusts an extra crackle, complexity, and tang. The house-extruded pastas gain extra vibrance from their springy texture. The chef's attention to detail is evident in every dish, from the crab cakes to the pastas and pizzas. The restaurant's interior is a tribute to the Whitman neighborhood, with a wood-fired oven and a partially open kitchen that beckons from just beyond the entrance. The Doughertys, the owners of Waltz, have created a wider opening between the dining rooms in two adjoining properties, restored the exterior brick by brick, and completely rebuilt the interior, down to the framed collage of 1924 editions of The Inquirer that had been used inside the walls as insulation. The restaurant's craftsmanship is evident in the millwork of the wood paneling, the barroom tiles, the vintage pendant lights, and the beautifully outfitted marble bathrooms downstairs. The restaurant's menu is a nod to the hard-shell history of this address’ previous occupant, Anthony’s Crab House. The chef's attention to detail is evident in every dish, from the crab cakes to the pastas and pizzas. The restaurant's drink program has a bit further to go, with cocktails that offer some trendy twists to classics but occasionally land shy of their promise. The small wine list is full of basic Italian wine values for $13 a glass or less, and a tiny reserve bottle list for a Super Tuscan or Brunello di Montalcino. Dinner as a whole is fairly priced considering the quality, with check averages of $55 to $65 including beverage before tax and tip. Waltz's finest finishing moves are the exceptional gelati, which are spun daily before service so the textures remain spoonably soft and vivid of flavor. The pistachio is always my go-to, and didn’t disappoint here, but I could also taste the real Tahitian beans (not extract) steeped into the vanilla. I was thoroughly charmed by the Andes Mint flavor topped with a dusting of the grated chocolate-and-crème de menthe candies. Even better was the strawberry sorbetto, which doubled down on berry flavor with a crimson glaze of strawberry compote. If you’re going to build a new restaurant that feels like an old soul inspired by another era, these are just the kind of fresh touches required to appeal to diners today. Waltz is a must-visit restaurant for anyone looking for a fresh take on Italian dining in deep South Philly.
